Cappuccino

(1/19/18) The morning after the biggest west angled swell of the decade assaulted the Pacific Coast, the ocean was still in throws of passion. While yesterday’s 24 feet-19 second swell produced ominous conditions veiled in fog and rain, today’s 16 feet-16 second swell was more approachable and lit with warm early light. The churned up sea foam, rich in color and texture made for a muffled sounding wave that was much bigger than it looks. If a surfer were riding this wave, (s)he’d be standing upright in this tube. This day, no takers.

Foam Ball, Corner Pocket

Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA. A barrel bending the sandbar below, hooking left into the corner pocket. A perfect masse.

Glass Slipper

The west coast has been blessed with back to back days of perfect surf with hard off shore winds, west direction swells and good sandbars. It's left the boys with sore arms and great stories to embellish on. Here is a NorCal local reaping the rewards. (el nino 2016).

I'll Get The Next One

A lone surfer out at dawn at Steamers Lane in Santa Cruz paddles over a set wave to scout out his future options. The light was just peaking the horizon at this moment which illuminated the wave top like this.

Mavericks Rush Hour

When the world's most seasoned big wave surfers sit in close proximity to each other, scrambling for same waves things get hectic. Greg Long, and humble ambassador for big wave charging, deciding to pull back on the largest wave of the winter, Mavericks, February 6, 2017. He'd later say he made the right call backing off, given how high his position was at the top of the wave.

Chase Sapphire

An unridden and undeniably mesmerizing wave rolls by. Cool and clear as she gets. Sot on the Nikon d810, drop for drop resolution.

BCP

Beautiful evening lighting accenting the tops of waves as they break along the California Coastline. Spring 2016. What you ask does BCP stand for? Please comment and let me know what you think, but I may never tell.

Dark Star Orchestra

I am not a big Grateful Dead fan, more of a Hendrix fan but the name just seemed fitting.

Coast Guard Cutter & Wave

El Nino arrive in Northern California as the Bodega Bay Coast Guard takes a spin nearby.

Dragon Spit

Thick, nasty, heavy shore pound. #norcal

Bittersweet

Being too far out on the shoulder is bittersweet; from one perspective you're bummed for missing the opportunity to ride a perfect wave, and from another you're stoked to just watch the beauty of the scene unfolding around you.

311

Warm amber toned tube, the California coast stuff of dreams.

Tiny Dancer

Instead of a written caption for this image, I thought it would be more fun for both of us to sing Elton John's "Tiny Dancer". (Sing now to yourself) while admiring the beauty of this one foot wave breaking on the shore's edge.

Green Lantern

This photo was taken during intense sunset light which for a split second illuminated the barrel as it rolled through. On this day a big west swell was pummeling the coast and at this secret Central Cal break, it was holding. Even though it looks like perfection all around was complete victory at sea and actually making a wave on this day was un-likely. No one out this session, just me. (2:1 Panoramic crop)

El Nino 2015-2016 Opens

Chasing bulls begins. December 2015.

Light Off Shores

Fall conditions in California. :)

Honolua Bay's Finest

This photo was taken on Christmas Day 2012 and a medium resolution version was uploaded to Surfline.com on December 4, 2014. Within a few days it became the most viewed photo on the entire website, with over 55K views in only a few days time. You're right, it's not very likely that when the conditions are this absolutely perfect at Honolua, that no one would be on this wave. There is someone on the wave, but you can't see him because he's throated in the barrel. When this photo is blown up you can see the tip of his board about to emerge. For all intensive mind surfing purposes, it's your wave - charge it!

Unridden Honolua Bay

It still happens, usually after a big swell when everyone 'got some' already and won't even show up to check when the numbers drop...but see still squeak through unridden.

Opening Day, Maui North Shore

Kaho'olawe mysto reef, After a long slumber, the first swell of winter arrived on Maui in October and I was lucky enough to get a call from a local Jaws surfer. The next morning I was set up at this secret spot on the north shore shooting set after set or perfection, surfed only by the local boys and Maui pros. Many waves, like this one, went un-surfed this day…the boys were still getting their bearings.

Readers Digest

An unknowing bystander with front row seats to a wide open wave scape.

Not So Secret

Quintessential Ocean Beach, San Francisco. Big peaks, beautiful, mildly crowded, offshore and peak after peak after peak after peak.

Coming Out Party

On Christmas day 2012, with a perfect swell in every way - the scene was crazy at Honolua Bay. A literal hundred cars parked on packed cliffs and a packed lineup. When you get barreled on days like this, people notice. (2:1 Panoramic Crop)

Macro Tube

I set up at about half a dozen different locations during this shoot...it's just my A.D.D. The swell angle was so square, the early morning off shores stiff and the colorful low light served me this image on a platter. It's one of my favorite barrel shots to date. So much personality, texture, color and shape to enjoy in this image. Plus, there isn't a rookie botching the drop and ruining the solidarity.

Tourquoise Bay Beauty

On a remote stretch of the Oregon Coast you come across spots like these. Unridden, unchecked and going off.